elderberries

This is a copy of the presentation that Rob gave in St. Catherines, Ontario in February 2006.

Elderberry Production

Introduction:

The elderberry plant is a medium sized to tall shrub or in some cases a small tree. The edible
elderberry species are Sambucus nigra and S. canadensis, or the European and American
Elderberry. Both produce black fruit on large umbels; however the European elderberry is
more of a tree form while the American tends to be a shrub form. European elderberry has
been cultivated for centuries while the American elderberry only for the last century. The
European elderberry is claimed to be more productive but the fruit is inferior in quality for
certain purposes, such as dyes. It is largely the fruit that is marketed for use in wines, pies,
and baked goods, confections, jellies, juices and food colouring dyes. Fruits are rich in
vitamins A and C, high in antioxidants and provide highest level of potassium and phosphorus
of any temperate fruit. The flowers are utilized in beverages and baked goods. The leaves,
bark and roots are utilized in some herbal remedies.

Soils:

Elderberries will grow on virtually any soil; however prefer well-drained fertile soils that provide
an even supply of moisture. Elderberries will tolerate imperfect drainage better than most crop
plants, but plant growth and fruit yield suffer with prolonged flooding. Flooding during the
dormant season does not seem to affect the elderberry but flooding during the growing season
does. Generally a day or two, especially early in the season doesn’t hurt; a week or more
seriously stunts growth and reduces yield. In contrast, drought and dry soils low in moisture
holding capacity support poor plant growth. In such soils irrigation, mulching and good weed
control will encourage better growth.

Soil pH influences plant growth. Acid soils do not support good plant growth. Lime the soil and
or apply manure or compost to raise the pH to 6.0 to 7.5; below 6.0 plant growth slows, below
5.0 plant growth is greatly reduced.

Most of our experience with elderberries are on sandy soils. I do not know how elderberries
will respond to imperfect drainage in heavier soils as soil aeration doesn’t recover as quickly
and root growth will likely be restricted more in heavy soils.

Land Preparation:

Elderberries prefer a weed-free site. The plants are poor weed competitors when young and
require a clean start. The previous crop to elderberries should be one that encourages good
weed control. A cereal crop followed by one or two post-harvest treatment of glyphosate, or
Round-up ready soybeans followed by a post harvest glyphosate on emerged weeds is ideal.
Corn is also suitable. However, ensure that you do not use residual herbicides in these crops
as it may affect elderberry growth. Be certain you have controlled perennial weeds such as
quack grass, brome grass, Canada and sow thistles, golden rod and any other aggressive
perennial weed as elderberry plants do not tolerate glyphosate. Avoid following crops such as
tomatoes, potatoes, strawberries, alfalfa as verticillium wilt will infect elderberry plants. Try to
build soil organic matter and fertility where possible as this will greatly aid in plant
establishment.

Topography:

Unlike other fruit crops, elderberry plants are hardy. The plants bloom in mid to late June
several feet off the ground. Planting into a frost – prone site is usually not a problem. Thus
bottom-land can be good site. In wet areas, or areas subject to occasional flooding, construct
raised beds to improve soil drainage - this is found to often improve the plant growth.
Elderberries tolerate some shade but prefer full sun. Thin – out trees that excessively shade a
planting.

Planting:

Elderberries can be planted any time of the year. The best time is during dormancy.
Elderberries are very cold tolerant and will grow in cold condition. Unless stressed
elderberries are often last to go dormant and first to initiate growth in the spring. Usually, as
soon as the snow melts and the ground starts to thaw, basal buds (new suckers) and roots
start to grow around late March in Brantford, Ontario area. Late fall planting (November) gives
excellent results while early spring planting gives very good results. Delaying planting in spring
usually reduces the plant growth but still gives good results.

One year old rooted cuttings are most commonly used. But older plants are quite acceptable.
Root plugs summer-planted (July/August) establish well and can be mechanically transplanted
but does not produce the same volume of growth in the first year as the older larger plants do.

Planting is most easily accomplished by cutting a furrow 6 to 8 inches deep into the soil every
12 to 16 feet. Plants are dropped every 5 to 6 feet in the furrow. Plants are then set straight,
roots covered with soil and tamped firmly. The furrow can be left open to catch rain and as
weeds emerge cultivation near the plants fills the furrows and buries the emerging weed
seedlings. Plant spacing used depends upon equipment utilized. An in row spacing of 5 to 8
feet is used to accommodate plants. The closer spacing is used where a hedge-row is
desired, the wider spacing is used to accommodate bush separation to permit easier access to
each bush and greater aeration – reduces mildew, botrytis but encourages weeds. Between
rows, to accommodate your tractor leave at least 8 feet for bush growth and spread, thus if
your tractor is 7 feet wide, row spacing should be 15 feet.

Fertilization:

Elderberry plants are heavy users of both potassium and nitrogen. Potassium, can be applied
as any form but use muriate of potash, once every year or in alternate years. We have been
applying 200 lbs/acre of muriate of potash every other year broadcast in early spring after
pruning. Any form of nitrogen can be applied. In year of planting, we apply 0.25 lbs of
ammonium nitrate by hand around each plant. The following year we apply 0.5 lbs of
ammonium nitrate per shrub. In the third year we apply 200 lbs of ammonium nitrate broadcast
in early spring during bud break. We followed up in late May with another application of 150 to
175 of ammonium nitrate depending upon potential growth and fruit yield. Up to one pound of
ammonium nitrate can be applied per plant upon full production in wider spaced plantings.

Irrigation:

Elderberries are heavy users of water. They have an extensive shallow root system that
effectively utilize water in the entire area allotted to them. An even moisture supply is
especially critical in the time from pre-bloom (mid to late May) to just before fruit maturity. If
elderberries do not have adequate moisture, fruit is aborted. The longer drought persists and
be hotter the temperatures, the more the fruit aborts. To encourage good plant growth and
high yields maintain moist soil conditions. This is accomplished by pruning, controlling weeds,
cover crops, mulching and by irrigating – either drip, sprinkler or traveller. All forms of irrigation
are equally effective.

Weed Control:

Elderberries do not like any other plants around them. The plant is very competitive with
weeds when older but weeds can induce moisture stress which will abort fruit and later reduce
plant growth. Keep young plantings weed – free. Shallow cultivate or close mow the aisles. A
plant cover in the aisles after harvest is beneficial to reduce erosion and build organic matter.
Cover crop examples are cereals, spring or winter, or annual weeds. Cover crop growth can
occur in spring, but before soil moisture gets depleted, eliminate the cover by close mowing or
shallow cultivation, discing, or rotovating. Do not cultivate older plantings deeper than 2 to 3
inches as this will damage the root system which will be very extensive in the alleys.
Elderberries hate sod.

Weeds are generally hand pulled or hoe between the rows when young. In older plantings
spot spraying with Ignite in early spring will give good weed suppression. Do not use
glyphosate; glyphosate will be absorbed by young elderberry suckers with in turn will
translocate theme to the mother plant and often kill them. An exception in glyphosate use in
the plantings is where a patch of particularly offensive weeds exist (for example Golding rod or
Canada thistle). Here careful spot spraying will eliminate the weeds before spreading further;
unfortunately it often kills the elderberry plants as well. The elderberry plants can be replanted
or may eventually grow back on their own.

Pest Problems:

Elderberries have few serious pests. Insects affecting elderberry plants include potato
leafhopper, mites and stink-bugs.

Diseases affecting elderberry include powdery mildew, botrytis fruit rot and verticillium wilt.
Powdery mildew and botrytis are effectively controlled with one or two sprays of Lance or
Elevate at registered rates and timing. Usually, sprays are not required. Verticillium wilt will kill
the odd elderberry plant and often kill individual canes. The plants can and often will out-grow
the disease and recover. Its best to avoid planting into sites that recently had crops that are
susceptible to verticillium wilt; eg solanecious crops – tomato, pepper, potato, eggplant,
tobacco; alfalfa, strawberries, cherries, and raspberries also host the disease.

Deer, rabbits, ground hogs, wild turkeys, mice and voles do not seem to bother elderberry
plants in my area; however, birds do.

All fruit eating birds seem to like elderberry – certain cultivars more than others. Victoria and
Kent are more susceptible to injury than York. Birds are largely controlled using scaring
devices and lure crops. The audible scaring devices are found to be very effective especially
when supplemented with the traditional shot gun. Bird-guard is widely used. It has various
bird species distress calls plus an attack call of a hawk. Bird bangers can also be effective.
When using these devices appearing in the field with a shot gun and injuring a few birds helps
substantially. Moving the scaring devices or placement of speakers in multiple locations in the
field also helps to confuse birds. Crops such as winter rye, wheat, and millet work well to lure
birds away from elderberries. When these crops are combined early leave the grain residue on
the surface – do not work the ground until all berries are harvested.

Pruning and Training:

Elderberry bushes are pruned once established to maintain production of large umbels of fruit.
Generally no pruning is necessary in the first 3 years of growth, with exception of removal of
dead wood or broken branches. Elderberry fruit is borne on the terminals and axils (forks) of
branches. Size of the fruit cluster is strongly influenced by the vigour of the branch it is
produces on. Low vigour branches generally produce small berry clusters that mature early in
the season. In contrast, extremely vigorous growth, the terminal of a one year old cane
produces a very large single umbel that is late ripening. Also, smaller clusters produce smaller
berries. Fruiting also pulls down the bush with fruit weight spreading the bush to occupy more
space. Sometimes the branches break with fruit weight, more often, the branch bends so the
fruit rests on the ground. Both of the occurrences are undesirable! Generally, two year old
wood is most fruitful but on certain cultivars such as Kent and Victoria, three year old wood is
also quite productive.

Pruning is done to remove deadwood, unfruitful older wood, reduce cane length and plant
height, to limit bush size and spread and maintain plant vigour. Dead wood is removed to limit
potential disease and insect spread as well as to facilitate harvest. Remove wood that is older
than 3 years. Certain cultivars such as Victoria and Kent tend to form a definite trunk. In these
cultivars cut back the older wood to the trunk and allow equal numbers, if possible, of the one,
two and three year shoots to remain – two to five of each. With York select equal numbers of
one, two, and three year old branches, again, two to five each. York does not really form a
trunk but suckers profusely. The Scotia cultivar is intermediate between the two growth types.
The number of canes (branches) of each age left is largely dependant on plant spacing, vigour
and level of cultural management. The wider the spacing in the row, the more canes can be
left per plant. The higher the plant vigour, the greater number of canes can be left. Finally, the
higher the level of nutritional, water and pest management, the more canes can be left. Note
that with high cane and plant densities, water competition is fierce amongst the plants, and if
water stress occurs during and after bloom fruit yield will be reduced through fruit abortion.
Cane thinning can be a useful method of compensating for a lack of water to ensure better fruit
set.

Finally, after cane thinning is accomplished trim back laterals and canes to stiffen the plant. By
leaving long canes the most fruitful laterals are produced on the upper portion of the cane.
This encourages the fruiting area to be high off the ground during and shortly after bloom.
However, developing berries will pull down the canes to the ground, especially after a rain.

Discarded wood is thrown to the middle of rows and mowed or mulched. The wood is soft so it
is easy to cut and shred with most mechanical mowers (rotary, flail or hammer).

Propagation:

Elderberry plants are easy to propagate. The easiest method is through hardwood cuttings.
Hardwood cuttings are collected in March or April during pruning. Select cuttings from
vigorous one year old wood. Basal wood roots easiest with a greater success rate. It is also
more mature and less subject to winter injury. Take two bud cuttings. Sticks can be gathered
and cut at a later date providing they are kept cold and moist. Two but cuttings are planted in
the spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Dipping the basal end in a rooting hormone
such as IBA is beneficial but not essential. Cuttings are simply placed erect in a trench 3 to 4
inches apart, then buried leaving the top bud exposed. Bud growth then rooting will occur over
the next two months. Try to keep soil moist and weed free. Cuttings many yield anywhere
from 6 inches to 3 feet of growth in the first year. Often, they are left another year to get larger
plants. Success rate varies but can be as high as 75%, usually it is around 50% but can be as
poor as 20 % (or lower) in a hot dry year.

Cultivars:

There are several cultivars that are available. Most have been selected from wild plants, some
derived from a breeding program at Kentville, Nova Scotia many years ago. For Ontario, the
cultivars from Nova Scotia and New York are most suitable for commercial production. We are
familiar with the Victoria, Kent, and Scotia and York cultivars and to a lesser degree Johns and
Adams.

Victoria is the earliest maturing berry. It generally ripens in early August. The berries are mid-
sized and quite sweet. The plant produces a definite trunk with very few basal suckers. The
fruit ripens fairly uniformly and can be harvested in two picks. The fruit de-stems extremely
well fresh. Fruit yields tend to be low to moderate.

Kent is very similar to Victoria but the fruit ripens a week to ten days later and is higher
yielding. The plants often produce a definite trunk but are more vigorous, sucker more
frequently than Victoria. Berries are medium sized and de-stem fresh very well. Berries are
fairly uniform ripening, harvesting in two to three pickings.

Scotia is mid-season maturing berry. The plants are vigorous and very productive. Berry size
is medium to medium-large. Fruits de-stem fairly well fresh. Harvest can be accomplished in
two or three pickings; ripening usually occurs in late August early September. The plants
produce many suckers annually but often produces a basal trunk in with branches arise from.

York is late-season and very large fruited. It generally is the highest yielding cultivar. It
produces very vigorous plants with many suckers and fruits best on two year old wood. Plant
requires heavy pruning to maintain good fruit production. Berries ripen from mid-September
through to early October, with three to four pickings necessary to complete harvest. Berries
tend to tear upon de-stemming fresh and are most suitable for juices extraction rather than
whole fruit use. Berries droop in umbel and are less subject to bird damage than other
cultivars. York is the most susceptible cultivar to powdery mildew and botrytis fruit rot.

Adams and Johns , from plants obtained from Ohio, produce large plants with very late small
berries on large umbels that ripen unevenly and de-stem poorly.

Pollination:

Elderberries are believed to be only partially self fruitful. It is recommended that different
cultivars be within 60 ft from each other to encourage cross-pollination. Most elderberry
cultivars appear to bloom almost simultaneously. Wind and perhaps some insects appear to
be the pollen vectors.
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Harvesting:

Elderberries do not ripen uniformly. This is largely due to the nature of their fruiting habit - the
age of wood and position of the fruit cluster in relation to intercepting sunlight. Fruit ripens first
on older wood and fruit that is well-exposed to sunlight. Heavy detailed pruning and training
will tend to encourage more even fruit ripening and facilitates quicker harvest by having fewer
but larger fruit clusters. Harvest fruit when (most of ) the berries are a dark mahogany, purple
or black colour. Fruit is harvested by breaking the umbel’s stem (pedicuncle) with a quick
twisting action between two fingers. Harvesting is quickest in the morning as the fruit stems
are most brittle. Fruit is generally placed in pails then dumped into vented totes and cooled
immediately to 0oC . Fresh fruit is best de-stemmed prior to cooling just after picking. Fruit is
de-stemmed mechanically by shaking using a rapid oscillating action. Approximately 10% of
the weight of the fruit on the umbels is stem. In shaking, berries fall off the stem through the
screen while the stem is left behind. After de-stemming, fruit is ‘floated’. Fruit is placed into
pails which are filled half way with berries, then water is added and berries are gently agitated.
Pail is filled with water allowing it to flow over. Ripe berries sink while stem debris, insects,
leaves, green berries float out of the pail.

Next, floated berries are placed onto a fine screen in a thin layer and washed with a spray of
water. This removes any sand or soil debris. It also provided opportunity to inspect the berries
and remove stem pieces and any other foreign debris. Berries are then permitted to drip-dry
for a few minutes then packed into containers and cooled immediately to 0oC to store fresh or
frozen. Elderberries of Victoria and Kent and usually Scotia de-stem without skin tearing.
Hence when frozen remain individual and separate quite easily in the frozen state.

Fruit harvested for juice and colouring are usually frozen on the umbels. Fruit is taken from the
field, quickly cooled to 0oC or lower, transferred to larger containers then frozen quickly and
stored. They are sold in the manner, then later de-stemmed for pressing by the purchaser.
About 3 to 4 years fruit yields can very from 2 to 6 tonnes per acre; but can be much higher
with good management and cooperative weather. Of course poorer sites yield poorer yields.

Elderberries are either sold fresh or frozen. Fresh elderberries that have been de-stemmed
and packaged are sold in one litre containers fresh or frozen for later use in pies, muffins, jams,
jellies, juicing or home wine making. Currently they are sold from the farm, farmers markets or
fruit stands at approximately $2.00 per pound wholesale. De-stemmed berries sold in larger
containers without cleaning are sold for use in wines, jellies and other confections (juices for
blending) at $1.00 to $1.50/lb; berries sold frozen on stem are readily sold for colouring at $0.36
/lb.

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